Hoi an Old / New town- 14/03/2015

Hoi An is Dead, Long Live Hoi An.

The lazy laid back, peaceful streets are no longer as I remembered, replaced by the bustle of walking tourists all drawn by it's now renowned appeal and charm as they contend for space with the bikes of both sightseers and residents along the narrow roads. The old charm has been replaced by a new charm and while some would argue it has become a victim of it's own success, I would doubt those here that profit from revenue and exposure that the increased tourism brings would share that sentiment. Speaking briefly to those who are visiting for the first time, it's clear that Hoi An is still a place that can capture the heart and imagination of those come, the colourful streets and the almost incomprehensible amount of shops which now spread out much further than I recall still have the power to delight and entice. Hoi An is different, but the same.

At first glance, tailors and restaurants still make up most of the goods and services that are on offer here, but there are also plenty of other goods too. Art shops selling books and posters, gift shops selling souvenirs with prices to suit your your budget, trip planners, umbrellas, traditional conical hats and lanterns, in fact  Hoi An has most of the things that you could possibly want or need, and many more things you didn't realise you did until you saw them.

Whilst the old town has the ability to be borderline overwhelming at times, outside the centre is a quieter affair. Streets still interspersed with shops, restaurants and colour afford you a sense of space and relaxation and the means to wind down. Instead of the quietness and almost too remote feeling I remembered about the location of my hotel previously, a sense of life now permeates through from the old town that makes the same walk far more interesting and engaging. It's still far enough away to be devoid of the noise, hustle and action that is only a short distance away,  but the hotel itself, through no big design or planning of it's own, has now found itself in almost the perfect location.

Unfortunately the same problems with my foot remained and trips that I had planned to do from here gave way to short walks with the camera or visits to some of the museums and old houses in the town. Fortunately there is still plenty to see and do here without the need to be on your feet all day and for 120,000 vnd you can buy a ticket which grants you access to 5 of the places of interest in the town. The museum of folk culture is an old building that is segmented inside into 3 areas separated by 2 small courtyards, each area detailing some of the different arts, crafts and work practices of Hoi An's history as well as giving you the option to try a few things like local teas, see some of these practices (such as embroidery and calligraphy) being performed and buy something small to remember your trip. The collection here is worth the visit, as is the house itself with it's large rooms, large wooded beams and view from the front looking out past the road and over the river in front of the building. The sense of space inside some of these buildings belies the appearance of their modest sized frontages, but not all buildings in Hoi An are created equal. The restaurants and bars I visited last time still exist, Cargo on the waterfront is 2 units knocked together giving a feeling of mild grandeur inside and through alleys and behind numerous temples you will find homes which have more in keeping with the appearance of a traditional barn than the more common vietnamese split level houses. All have their own appeal if you can find the right way to see things and this is possibly one of Hoi Ans greatest strengths.

There isn't a wrong way. If you come here you can't help but get caught up in the way of the town, the friendliness and attitude of the people. Yes you will be a tourist and yes, you will be welcomed partly because of the revenue you also bring (this is a town built on trade after all), but there is also a warmness that you rarely find anywhere else. I have found this applies to South and mid Vietnam in general but here those levels are seemingly concentrated. Even bartering is easy and laid back because when it arises it's done on the understanding that they want something from you, you want something from them and all that needs to be worked out is the price that both parties are happy with.  Tourism is their business now, and it's one that they are exceptionally good at. The people of Hoi An may partly welcome you because you can bring them a little more prosperity, but they are also warm, funny and friendly without any of the financial stuff  muddying the water.

The old Hoi An I fell for in 2013 may be dead, but this Hoi An still has more than enough to warrant spending more than a little time here. It's probably very near the top of any of the places I've been to recently, and that's something thats not just down to one aspect. There are flaws but none so great that it ruins or outweighs all the plusses this place has. It can be frantically busy at times but there are always retreats to be found and more importantly enjoyed.

I've found a lot of retreats so far.